A couple of weeks ago, EPI and I decided to go out for dinner to celebrate our wedding anniversary. After brief deliberation we decided on Tapas barinn, since we’d heard good things about it lately. I mention that because, well, we tried it when it first opened around 2002 or thereabouts, and were decidedly underwhelmed. If memory serves we ordered some kind of tapas taster menu, and thought it was pretty scant and basically not much like tapas at all – at least not the kind of tapas we’d experienced on our trips to Spain in the past.

BUT like I said, we’d heard good things about it lately, so decided to give it another go [in other words, we hadn’t gone there since that first time, excepting one time when we went there after the theatah with a group of people we were with and just had a drink and maybe one tapas serving].

We’d been told the current tapas taster menu was amazing. However, that recommendation came with an aside: namely that we should make sure to ask them to bring us the food slowly. Otherwise they’d just be bombarding us with tapas dishes and we wouldn’t have time to just sit there and enjoy.

We thought that sounded like a stellar idea, so when we ordered the taster menu of seven or so tapas dishes, we specifically asked the waitress to bring it to us slowly. “No problem,” was the reply.

It started out reasonably well. She brought us a basket of bread with hummus and tapenade, plus a glass of sparkling wine that was included. EPI ordered some red wine, which she brought before we were even halfway through our first drink.

Which sort of set the pace for the rest of the evening.

After a reasonable length of time, the waitress showed up again, bearing two plates of tapas per person: bacon-wrapped scallops and dates, and toasted baguette with foie gras atop some kind of sweet chutney.

YT: Um, we asked to have the food brought to us in succession. We don’t want the dishes to come all at once.

WAITRESS: Oh, yeah, I know. It’s just these first two that come at the same time. The others will come slowly.

Fair enough. We’re good people, prepared to cut a working girl some slack. And I’ll readily admit that both of those were pretty darn tasty, even though I would soon start to feel like that foie gras goose myself.

But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Next our waitress brought linguistine [wee Icelandic lobsters] grilled with garlic, which was also pretty tasty, although the linguistine was a little on the mealy side. Like the kind you get in Bónus, as opposed to the stuff you buy from a quality fishmonger.

But hey, we were still cool.

Next the waitress returned bearing three servings of tapas apiece.

Three. Servings. Of tapas. For each of us. Six plates of tapas manouvered into the small space on the table in front of us.

That’s when I gave her that look. That look that says: Excuse me, but which part of BRING THE FOOD SLOW don’t you understand?

YT: We asked to have our food brought slowly.

WAITRESS: Yeah, well, I can’t bring it any slower than this. It would stop the whole kitchen. We can’t stop the kitchen for just one table.

OOOH. ~~ OOOH.

Dear readers, this is Icelandic service culture in a nutshell. In Icelandic service culture, THE CUSTOMER IS ALWAYS WRONG. In fact? THE CUSTOMER CAN SUCK SAUSAGES because WE CAN’T STOP THE KITCHEN FOR JUST ONE TABLE.

I’m not even going to get INTO all the things that I could get into, like how other restaurants in this city that offer most excellent tasting menus can time the succession of their servings without the entire freaking restaurant spinning off its axis.

Or how the people at Tapas barinn could have, maybe, just told us that we’d be stopping the whole freaking kitchen with our insane demands, for instance after the part where we asked to have our food brought SLOWLY and before the waitress said “Sure, no problem.”

Or how one of those three tapas dishes consisted of a baked potato [!?!] that on top of everything else was inedible. And how one of the others consisted of duck breast that tasted like it had been boiled for 12 hours, then slapped on a plate with orange sauce. Or how just about every one of those tapas dishes was garnished with a bit of salad, that was all the same [lettuce leaves, diced bell peppers, dressing].

FAIL.

Instead we called the manager over. And we were not happy campers. We told him we had specifically asked to have our servings paced. He responded with the remark that if they did that for every single table, we would have to wait for an hour for each dish.

DOUBLE FAIL.

That may have been the point where I mentioned that I was writing a restaurant review. Which may have been the point where he said he’d give us complementary dessert. Which was probably when I told him we didn’t want his dessert because it was already included in the freaking taster menu that they were so intent on shoving down our throats.

EPI, who is usually the calm one in these situations, had smoke coming out of his ears and was ready to get up and walk out. I made him stay because I wanted dessert. Which, I might add, was excellent, and had nothing in common with anything Spanish – French chocolate cake with whipped cream and strawberries.

Once that was down the old hatch, we got up and left, with little love lost. It wasn’t until we got home that I realized that the manager had actually taken 20% off our bill, probably as a conciliatory measure, although he made no mention of it. So they get a point for that … and 2.5 stars for their food. As for an enjoyable night out … I think we’ll spend a few more crowns next time and go somewhere where they really know their game.

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Behind the volcano

by alda on July 29, 2010

This guest post comes from Elisa, an American expat living in Reykjavík, who writes the beautiful blog Reykjavík Harbor Watch. I’ve long been a fan of her writing, and am so pleased she agreed to contribute to the IWR.

Stale tire air, bugs in your hair, it’s summertime in the Icelandic highlands. One of the things that keeps me here is the magic of a weekend tour in the interior of the country, a delight that’s a major reason you see so many ridiculously souped-up Jeeps here. On Laugavegur, they’re a minor inconvenience and look totally out of place, but take them into the highlands and it all makes sense.

On Saturday, S & I joined a fellow Land Cruiser pair, J & D (plus J’s 70 year old trooper of a ma) on an exploration of one of the great routes of the Icelandic interior. We decided to approach via Hella, and with a short stop to deflate the tires for maximum grip & lowered vibration, we hit the first part of F210, Syðra Fjallabak. The first bit of this track is rather upleasant, winding straight through a lava field with none of the comforts of a normal road. It’s bumpy, slow going with the only reward being the knowledge you’re going into the wilds, and an occasionally nice view of Hekla.

Just south of the mountain Laufafell it starts to get more interesting, with a few waterfalls and charming pools along the ridge to the right, one of which we stopped at for lunch. Places like this are everywhere here but even after 5 years my thrill at finding them hasn’t worn off. The rivers are always sparkling, the waterfalls enchantingly mossy, the pools beneath glow turquoise with enticing mystery (although the icy temperature makes them instantly less enticing!). Sit down, take a sip, ponder the view.

Icelandic lunching

The next part of the trip is one of the best bits, when the road dives directly into the water and one splashes merrily along for several hundred meters in a shallow pebbled stream. Next, a river crossing, but this year the rivers have been extremely low in comparison to last year, so there was none of the grave analysis and extreme low gear normally used.

Driving in the highlands

After that we climbed the ridge which offers the panoramic views of the backsides of many of the highland’s excitements- to the north, the mountains that ring Landmannalaugar, to the south a glimpse of the glaciers- Mýrdallsjökull and the now famous Eyafjallajökull. We’d heard that the latter was still doing something but weren’t prepared for the cape of steam that ringed the massive crater tipped directly towards us. Now I understand why it’s not been declared finished.

We stopped soon after for camping at Alftavatn, where a luxurious, newly constructed hut houses hikers from all over the world on their way to Þórsmörk from Landmannalaugar. We pulled up in comparably comfortable style with our fresh food, our huge tents, our inflatable mattresses (J’s mom needed to be comfy and well blanketed!) and enjoyed the evening there even as the sun clouded over in the wee hours. Actually, that makes things a bit nicer since otherwise summer camping gets extremely hot in the very early hours.

Next morning we continued on, branching away from F210 to follow closer to the glacier and stop at another one of my favorite spots, a small meadow at the intersection of two absolutely charming waterfalls, beneath a mountain so green and lush it appeared to be upholstered in velour. There we grilled fish and I splashed through the iced river to explore the adjacent area, brimming with gurgling spring-sources and miniature blue flowers. This is what I love best about Iceland- the freedom to enjoy a gorgeous place in total peace.

The road from there meanders along with a raging glacier-fed river the color of coffee and then abruptly ends on the open section of Rte 1 past Vík. From there it was a short inflate of the tires and then, three hours of pavement driving to home.

Taking this route gave us plenty of opportunity to see how the volcano had changed the landscape in the area.  Two years ago, I’d camped in the same spot and the view of Eyafjallajökull had been a smooth white arc, blending almost perfectly with the sky and clouds above. Now, it’s gray and hacked apart by the crater in the center, unrecognizable as a glacier. The area where we were driving was liberally sprinkled with ash that coated the car and left a gritty layer in our mouths, our hair, our skin. The patches of snow that still clung to the mountains north of us were all gray, and everywhere else we drove on the south coast has a similarly blue-gray tinge beneath the greenery. In spite of this, I do think that for the first-time visitor these changes (other than the obviously strange-colored glacier) would be almost unrecognizable, and even in the few weeks since I was last there, the situation has improved noticeably. In the end of June, the piles of dust could be seen behind the tiny plants on the beach at Vík, and the roadsides were thickly sprinkled with ash. Between Dýrholaey and Seljalandsfoss a month ago was a dust-blizzard so thick we couldn’t see the massive waterfall at Skógarfoss when we passed it. This trip it whizzed by in a blaze of sunshine and German bicycle-tourist spotting. After the desolate tourist landscape of a month before, it was nice to see that visitors have returned and are enjoying this beautiful place again.

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Iceland from the inside: http://reykjavikharbor.blogspot.com/

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Festivalia

by alda on July 28, 2010

The first delightful guest to post on this site is Hildigunnur, who has been reading and commenting here for almost as long as I can remember — and who many of you will surely recognize [as it were]. Hildigunnur writes the blog Computernerd Composer, whose title should give you a pretty good idea of her main interests [or, well, two of them, at least]. She knows everything there is to know about the Icelandic music scene, and I’m delighted she’s agreed to contribute.

Hi everyone

Alda asked me to be one of her guest pens – she’s going on a well earned holiday. My own page (Icelandic one that is – English one quite a bit less) usually attracted about 200-400 people per day back in my blogger heyday so it’s brill to be writing to a bigger audience.

So of course I’ll be using the opportunity to advertise my field… (by kind permission just so that you know ;) )

I live and breathe in Iceland’s classical music scene, am a composer, singer and music teacher, but I’d like to tell you about the numerous music festivals that abound in Iceland in the summertime. Actually there aren’t all that many classical concerts going on in Reykjavík during the summer; in the winter you could use half your waking hours going to the various concerts, but in the summertime most of the action is going on in the countryside.

First, the oldest and biggest festival: the Skálholt Church Summer Festival. Skálholt Church is in a historic site, is a part of some of the Golden Circle tours and is an amazing church with one out of 2 best acoustics in the country, especially for choral music. The festival has been going strong for 35 years and is getting bigger every year in spite of the Kreppa – concerts every Thursday evening and 3 concerts during the weekend – 6 weeks every summer. Contemporary classical and original-instruments Baroque and Renaissance music have long been the festival’s high points but you can find all sorts of other interesting things too. Very high standard – more info here. Just over an hour’s drive east from Reykjavík. Free entrance (the only festival afaik) but donations welcomed.

Then there’s Reykholtshátíð, going on as I write – also a historical place: Reykholt Festival is an international music festival held in historic Reykholt, the birth place of Snorri Sturluson in Borgarfjördur, the last week of July every year. Its repertoire mainly consists of classical music featuring both Icelandic musicians and well known foreign artists. Reykholt festival has earned a reputation as being one of the most interesting cultural events in Iceland. Here’s a link to that one. An hour and a half’s drive north of Reykjavík.

A bit further out we have Chamber Concerts in Kirkjubæjarklaustur, see here. Unfortunately I can’t seem to find an English version but the program’s there and the dates. Three hours to the east of Reykjavík.

Other festivals – finished for this year are e.g. Við djúpið in Ísafjörður and Bjartar nætur in Hveragerði (no website that I could find). I’m sure I’m forgetting something.

But Reykjavík of course has festivals and concerts too, the International Organ Summer – that one’s smack in the centre of Reykjavík in Hallgrímskirkja church. Not an old festival but a lot of amazing concerts. There are the Summer Concerts in Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum, by the sea, and for lovers of song the CCCR.

Aaaand – of course there’s Culture Night. Maybe more on that later…

Cheers

Hildigunnur

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On the magical energy of Snæfellsnes

by alda on July 27, 2010

So, I left off in the last post where we’d just stepped off a fabulous cruise around Breiðafjörður bay that was part of the Wonders of Snæfellsnes with Cruise tour.

Time to get back on our mini-bus and circumvent the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

We headed westward, in the direction of the Snæfellsnes glacier. As we drove along the coast, with sparkling sea on the one side and awe-inspiring mountains on the other, I thought about how the mountains on Snæfellsnes always seem to have a different hue than those elsewhere in Iceland. I don’t know what it is. Something about the light, which is very serene yet at the same time infused with a special kind of energy.

We drove through the small towns that for centuries have derived their sustenance from fishing [and still do], the first one being Grundarfjörður. This is the site of one of the most stunning mountains in Iceland, Mt. Kirkjufell, or “Church Mountain”. Imagine waking up to a view of this every morning:

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Just opposite the mountain [according to our guide] is one of the most popular ice climbing locations in Iceland. Apparently there are all sorts of small frozen waterfalls in the winter, and people come from far and wide to climb there:

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We made a brief stop in the small village of Ólafsvík — a place that is very special to EPI as he spent one winter there teaching when he was younger. [EPI is not a teacher, but occasionally there is a shortage of teachers in rural areas and they then hire people who are qualified but do not necessarily have the requisite training.] As you can see, it was very warm [by Icelandic standards], and some of the locals needed cooling off:

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By this time we were pretty much underneath the glacier, and a few minutes later we were at the end of the peninsula, which provided us with a fantastic view:

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The ice cap is still very visible seen from that side, but sadly, on the south side there is hardly anything left of it at this time of year. As a result of global warming, the ice cap has retreated from around 22,000 square km to around 11,000 in just a few years:

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Our next stop was Djúpalónssandur [Deep Lagoon Sands] — an amazingly beautiful black pebble beach that used to be an old fishing station. I’ve written before about how they used to make potential fishermen lift rocks to test whether they were strong enough to be hired, and those rocks are still there for anyone who wants to test their strength. The pebbles and stones on this beach are incredible — all with perfectly rounded edges, having been smoothed by the tide over years and years, and feel like silk to the touch. Also, the sound of the tide rolling in and out is so beautiful — those stones make a tinkly, pearly sound as they roll in the surf that I could happily listen to all day long. So meditative and soothing.

There were quite a few people there:

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EPI skipped a few stones in the surf:

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Such a beautiful day and I was so sorry to leave. But there was still one more stop to be made before heading home. From Djúpalónssandur we drove to Arnarstapi, a small village known for its amazing bird cliffs and rock formations. I’ve been to this place many times [even spent a long weekend there once] and it just never gets old.

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The birds are so close you can almost touch them — though you wouldn’t want to risk it because those cliffs are STEEP.

This mommy did not care for company:

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The sea has carved out incredible formations in the cliffs:

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And the basalt columns are spectacular and take many forms, like this, reminiscent of logs:

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Alas, by this time it was almost 6 pm and time to head back to town. The day had been spectacular, the scenery breathtaking, and the entire tour left us elated and refreshed.

Reykjavík Excursions offers the Wonders of Snæfellsnes with Cruise tour throughout the summer, from June to August.

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The wonders of Snæfellsnes, with cruise

July 26, 2010

A few days ago, EPI and I decided to hop on a Reykjavík Excursions tour called The Wonders of Snæfellsnes with Cruise — which to my mind sounded seriously intriguing. Particularly since every single cruise I’ve taken in Icelandic waters in recent years has been absolutely magical. Especially in good weather. For those who don’t [...]

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What’s in a name

July 25, 2010

Every now and again I get someone asking me about the name of this blog. Something along the lines of What kind of stupid idiotic name is Iceland Weather Report, when your blog is all about politics or economics or magical locations you can find in Iceland, and nothing about the weather? Well, there’s a [...]

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Quirky Icelandic phrases

July 24, 2010

Just for fun, I think I’ll start a series of posts called Quirky Icelandic Phrases. Maybe throw in the odd idiom or two. OK, here’s idiosyncratic phrase number one: whenever someone has been out in the sun and has developed a bit of a tan, people will say to him / her: “You’ve taken some [...]

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Smorgasbord of goodies coming up

July 23, 2010

I’m going to be doing some travelling over the next while, and have enlisted some wonderful bloggers to help write posts while I’m gone. I’m pretty excited about this because they are all people I respect and whose writing I enjoy very much. They had a completely free choice of topic, the only stipulation being [...]

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No eros please, we’re Icelandic

July 22, 2010

One of the most bizarre news items of recent days is the one about how Icelandic authorities have refused to take the cider Tempt into sale because they feel the packaging is too lascivious. Certainly the Tempt Cider people clearly have a fondness for burlesque, and of course using sex in marketing commonplace products is [...]

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Nighttime dips

July 22, 2010

AAH arrived home from work at around 1.15 in the morning last night and announced she was going swimming. Saywhat? Yup indeed, turns out that Laugardalslaug is offering nighttime swimming all this week. In other words, they’re open 24/7. Admission costs ISK 1,000 as opposed to the regular ISK 300 or so. This 24/7 trend [...]

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