From the monthly archives:

July 2006

Home exchange gone sour

by alda on July 30, 2006

At the beginning of the year, when we started thinking of travelling to Canada, the discussion arose of doing a home exchange. We wanted to spend quite a lot of time in Toronto, and paying hotel bills in a city that size for the length of time that we wanted to stay was pretty much out of the question. Besides, I’ve always liked the idea of home exchanges – not only are they economical, they also provide all the comforts of a home when travelling, plus you get unique insight into other cultures.

So we signed up online and almost immediately I received an exchange offer from someone who wanted to visit Iceland along with his wife, and offered in exchange their home in Whitby, Ontario – a town about 45 minutes east of Toronto. We politely declined, saying we’d like to actually be in the city, at which he wrote back with another proposition. His wife was of Icelandic descent, he said, and it would mean a lot to them if they could visit with their two daughters, both of whom lived in “the heart of” Toronto. We could have either of their two places. One was in Etobicoke [hardly “the heart” of Toronto – was this little white lie a sign of things to come?], the other downtown, on Adelaide St. East, near Sherbourne. After a brief deliberation and email exchanges with a couple of others who were ‘warm’, we decided to accept his offer, choosing the condo on Adelaide and Sherbourne to stay in. We also decided that we would exchange cars.

In the succeeding months we had minimal correspondence, just what was needed, giving details of our travel plans, etc. Our exchange partner’s style was very businesslike and curt; he never put his name under any of his email messages, for instance, which I found a little strange. As the time drew nearer, we stepped up the correspondence somewhat, and while there was always a reply to my queries, the replies were completely devoid of any warmth.

Somehow – and I can hardly believe this of myself now – the idea of drawing up some sort of home exchange agreement or contract simply didn’t enter my mind. Which is probably why I didn’t go looking for those on the home exchange website. Now – much the wiser – I see they have all sorts of forms, both for home and auto exchanges. Of course.

Fast-forward to our arrival in Toronto. We found the daughter’s condo as they had described it and our stay there was uneventful in terms of the home itself. More than once, though, we remarked on how strange it was to be staying in someone’s home and to have someone staying in ours, and yet have no contact. So in the end I sent an email to the daughter [whom I had corresponded with briefly prior to our arrival] just to say hello and wondering how things were and if they had found everything they needed. The reply came back a few days later: they had been travelling and yes, the had everything they needed.

Cut to the end of our trip, and arrival at home. Our flat was tidy and clean and there was no correspondence from The Others, save for a typically terse note on the table that read:

Laundry – hanging downstairs
Whale watching – to be used*
Hope you had a wonderful time, as we did.

[* i.e. some kind of ticket for a whale watching excursion, most likely a freebie they’d received for not seeing any whales.]

A brief look around determined that all was as it should be. However, when I got into to my car a short while later, I was stunned to see that it had been driven nearly 4,000 kilometres, or 2,700 miles, in three weeks. Closer inspection revealed that both headlights were burnt out, the paint was chipped off on the front from pebbles flying up on gravel roads, and it needed an oil change, despite having had one a couple of days before we left.

Call me naive [I am!] – I really did not see that coming. Stupidly I assumed that there’s only so much driving you can do in three weeks, and it’s not 4,000 kilometres. It’s equivalent to three times around Iceland on the ring road – and most people take a week to complete one circle on the ring road. Christ, they must have spent their every waking hour in the car!

To my mind, driving someone else’s car that distance is far beyond what is normal and reasonable, and I’m sure they knew it. After all, on the home exchange web page they claim to have exchanged homes twice in the past. And stupid, naïve me – I didn’t even look for those agreements, the ones that stipulate that after 500 miles of driving you must check the oil, tires, etc. of the car and after a pre-arranged mileage amount you pay a fee per driven kilometer, much as you would at a car rental agency. No – I simply assumed these were decent people who would show restraint and care for our property. I was wrong.

I sent them an email. I knew I had nothing on them, having no written agreement, but I wanted to let them know that I considered this a dark blemish on our exchange. It’s been almost a week and I’ve received no reply. Clearly they have nothing to say. And they have no honor.

There is no major harm done. My car is still functional. But my faith in people has suffered. At the risk of sounding like a martyr, I will nevertheless say this: I trusted them enough to admit them into my home, I made sure they had everything they needed to be comfortable, and left them the car that we thought would be the more reliable of our two, as it had less mileage on it. And they reveal themselves to have this sort of character. I feel violated. Angry. Taken advantage of.

And I have learned a valuable lesson, which I hereby pass on to anyone who may be considering a home exchange: draw up an agreement. For the house and the car.

UPDATE: Having received a response from the Home Exchange people in which my feelings that this was not normal or natural were confirmed, my anger has abated somewhat. At least enough to have reconsidered my position in identifying these people. However, if anyone is considering an exchange with someone in Whitby or Toronto, and wishes to avoid the people in question, feel free to e-mail me.

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Flickr pics

by alda on July 28, 2006



Here’s one of the first pictures I took on our Canada vacation - in front of the St. Lawrence Market, on Front Street. I love that little triangular building between the two skyscrapers… and of course there’s the CN Tower - Toronto’s emblem - doing a peek-a-boo behind one of them.

Hasty post today, but if you’re interested you can have look at a bunch of pictures I’ve uploaded to Flickr. Just click on this one and then choose slideshow - or whatever you want.

Also, sometime in the next few days I’m planning to post more details of the home exchange fiask… er, experience. So those of you who have expressed an interest, stay tuned.

THE WEATHER…
Is overcast and windy. Saving grace: relatively mild [15°C]. Sun came up at 04.27 and will set at 22.39.

PS. For some annoying reason the pics only appear in chronological order [i.e. more or less the order they were taken in] if you go here and select the ‘Canada’ set.

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New world. paux fas. [sic]

by alda on July 26, 2006

Icelanders tend to go on and on about how amazing it is that all those second- and third generation Western Icelanders still speak Icelandic. [For the record, Western Icelanders are people of Icelandic descent who live in North America, whose ancestors emigrated primarily in the late 1800s because they were sick and tired of getting repeatedly screwed over by the Norwegians or Danes or the forces of nature]. These people speak this archaic Icelandic and sing all these old Icelandic national songs and do it beautifully and, really, we ought to be in awe of them because it really is quite remarkable.

So anyway, every now and again - at regular intervals - there are reports in the media of what the Western Icelanders are up to and how amazing it is that they still speak Icelandic. Today one of those reports appeared in Fréttablaðið, about some guy who used to teach Icelandic in Winnipeg and now organizes annual trips to Canada and guides Icelanders around the areas where the Western Icelanders live. The report trots out the old isn’t-it-amazing-they-speak-Icelandic! chestnut, but also addresses the question of nuance, which sometimes can fall by the wayside, with some pretty funny results.

Example: Two guys meet up, and one says to the other [in Icelandic]: Ég rann inn í konuna þína í Háskólanum í morgun. An easy enough mistake to make, because it sounds like “I ran into your wife at the University this morning”. Had the New World Icelander been attuned to the nuance, however, he’d realize that what he said was: “I slid into your wife at the University this morning.”

Oops!

Another example: Our man in the report had an acquaintance who was a Western Icelander, and one evening they were leaving somewhere and walked together out to their respective cars. As our man was getting into his car, the other guy said, Góða nótt ástin mín, which is a very intimate endearment and basically means, “Good night, my darling”. Our man did a double take, and tried to explain to the guy [whose mother and grandmother had tucked him into bed with those words] that this was, ahem, generally not the way two men said goodbye to each other. To no avail: his Western Icelander friend continued to bestow him with those endearments for the remainder of their acquaintance. Bless.

OUR DARLING DARLING WEATHER IS
Well, they promised us decent weather today, and I guess they delivered. There were around five full minutes of sunshine, but at least the wind was minimal and there was no rain. I dragged EPI - who returned from a hiking trip last night, which I had to miss - up a mountain with me [I needed my mountain fix too, pout]. The only problem was they’re building so much around Reykjavík these days they’d completely changed the route to the mountain so we drove around for almost an hour before we could find it. I mean we could see it, but we couldn’t get to it — do you have any idea how frustrating that is?? Anyway, after we’d finally parked the car and were heading along a trail to the foot of the slope, we met a bunch of people on horseback, probably from some horse rental in the vicinity. The first girl - an Icelander - offered a cheerful Góðan daginn!, whereas the next person, a guy who judging by the accent was American, offered up this rather cryptic comment: “Been hiking so long the snow’s all gone, hahaha!”

[…?]

Afterwards I couldn’t help thinking there was probably some snappy retort I could have offered in return, only I didn’t know what the bejeezus he was on about. Never mind. Rain for the next few days. Temps currently 13°C. Sunrise 04.14, sunset 22.52. And I now see from the mbl.is website that they’ve found a vaccine for the avian flu! Isn’t that great news?? Next if they could kindly fix cancer and aids, that would be fantastic.

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Heh

by alda on July 25, 2006



Snapped this at the delightful Kensington Market in Toronto, one of my favourite neighbourhoods in the city. We were staying very close to the substantially-more gentile St. Lawrence Market [read: no Roach-O-Rama shops], but made a few trips over to Kensington nonetheless.

Am currently working on uploading more photos from our trip to Flickr. Stay tuned.

AS FOR THE HOME COUNTRY
We’ve got gentle rain falling at the moment. Tomorrow we’re set to have some sun, after which it’s back to rain for the next several days. This coming weekend is Icelanders’ big blow-out weekend, Verslunarmannahelgin, when half the country hits the road to attend the myriad outdoor festivals held all around the country, so you can bet there are a lot of people interested in the weather forecast. Temps are a balmy 13°C and the sun came up at 04.11 and will set at 22.55, and Oh! As of today we’re back to daybreak/nightfall times - as you will recall we’ve had none of those lately because, well, there was no daybreak/nightfall on account of the 24-hour daylight. So today daybreak was at 02.00 and nightfall is set for 24.54. Heading into the darkness now. Boo.

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How to be… une Canadienne

by alda on July 23, 2006

One of the perks of being socialized as a Canadian is having a rather large latent vocabulary in French. This became evident a few years ago when, after having lived away from Canada for over a decade, I was in Paris with EPI and much to my surprise I was able to decipher all the advertisements we saw. Which was kind of fun, but actually not really all that useful.

When you live in Canada, you cannot help but learn a lot of French words because - as most of you will know - Canada has two official languages, English and French. Consequently, all official business is in both languages, as are many of the road signs [on major highways, at least], as well as all product packages. This means that, over time, you will know what a lot of things are called in French, whereas unfortunately [as in my case] you will not necessarily know how to string all the nouns together. Or, as I recall explaining it to EPI, “You’re sitting at the breakfast table and you’ve got the milk and cereal in front of you, and automatically you start reading, and without even knowing it you’ve learned what milk and cereal are in French.” Or something along those lines.

Anyway, as we were heading home last week, I picked up this hilarious tome at the airport. It’s got these totally funny takes on being Canadian, and as you might surmise, I found this particularly amusing:

“Known far and wide as master linguists, Canadians excel in particular at translating cereal boxes. Often, when the U.N. needs a cereal box translated, they call in the Canadians, who parachute out of stealth bombers clutching boxes of Capitaine Crounche and K de Special. In a situation unique among the world’s nations, English Canadians know what the French is for ‘riboflavin,’ ‘niacin’ and ‘part of a complete breakfast’. And vice versa. English Canadians don’t know what riboflavin is (no one does), but they do sort of know what it looks like in French. And vice versa.”

Heheh. The best books are the ones that tell you something you already know, right?

MEANWHILE I AM STILL REELING…
From the news that petite anglaise got dooced. Shocking! Makes me exceedingly grateful to have but one boss - my very understanding and exceptionally accomodating self.

THE WEATHER IS ALSO QUITE ACCOMMODATING
We’re not seeing any sun, but it’s not windy nor raining and relatively warm[ish]… although having just returned from 30°C-and-up weather my criteria for ‘warm’ is slightly altered from what it normally is. EPI has gone off on a hiking excursion with our hiking group, whereas YT was obliged to miss it this year [boo]; they are currently exploring the doomed area that is set to go under water this fall when the dastardly Kárahnjúkar dam project is completed. Incidentally, speaking of travelling, I’m trying to decide whether I should be pissed off that THE OTHERS put a full 4,000 km in mileage on my car during the home exchange. That’s almost three times the distance around the island in three weeks! Seems a bit excessive, and a heck of a lot more than we put on their car, despite trips to Kingston and whathaveyou. Temps at this time are 14°C and sunrise was at 04.05, sunset at 23.01.

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Dual

by alda on July 21, 2006

Going back to Canada was a fairly emotional experience for me, if the truth be told. Except for the briefest of trips there in 2000 [I was in New York at the time and just flew up to Kingston for a couple of days] I had not been back for 16 years. Returning now made me realize that, while I have a strong commitment to my roots and consider myself first and foremost an Icelander, there’s a whole lot of Canada in me as well.

I first traveled to Canada at the age of five, when my parents were splitting up. My aunt – my mother’s sister – was pregnant with my cousin Signy and asked my mother to come over to help out. That brief visit extended to around six months, at which time my uncle got a commission to work with the United Nations in Cyprus. They invited my mother and me along, and my mother accepted. So the subsequent year-and-a-half were spent in Cyprus – to which I made an amazing pilgrimage two years ago [more on that later, perhaps].

I was seven when I returned to my beloved Iceland and I can still recall the immense relief I felt to be home. My mother was not quite as content and longed to return to Canada. After three years, she turned that dream into reality, so when I was ten I moved with my mother back to Canada, settling in Kingston, where my aunt and uncle lived.

I had absolutely not wanted to go and was terribly homesick, but slowly I assimilated, as one does. [At what cost is another matter – a subject I have considered at length but which shall not be delved into here]. So while I never really considered myself ‘A Canadian’ I nonetheless spent my formative years there… and gradually became socialized as ‘A Canadian’, even though I went ‘home’ every summer, at least for the first several years.

When I was in my teens, my mother became a Canadian citizen and asked me if I wanted to ‘convert’ along with her. At the time, Iceland did not allow dual citizenship, which left only the option of choosing one over the other. And even though by then I had grown very distant from Icelandic society, there was no choice in my mind. I was fiercely devoted to my Icelandic citizenship and would not dream of renouncing it. Besides, as a landed immigrant in Canada I had virtually all the rights of a native Canadian, with two notable exceptions: I was not allowed to vote, and I was not allowed to stay out of the country for more than six months [extendable for up to two years with good cause] – if I did, I would lose my landed immigrant status and would henceforth only be able to visit Canada as a tourist.

Eventually the time came – in my early twenties – when I felt I had to leave. Instead of going back to Iceland, though, I moved first to the UK and then to Germany, where I stayed for five years. I still remember that day when the door was shut in Canada and I knew I would no longer be able to return to the only society I knew and was capable of navigating. It was a very scary day. Like walking a tightrope, and for the first time having no safety net below if I fell. The ramifications of the choice I had made were very clear to me – and the future was completely uncertain.

A lot of water has gone under the bridge since then and this last trip to Canada was very, very good. I expected Toronto to be my ‘homecoming place’, but in the end it was Kingston that welcomed me with open arms and embraced me. It felt so good to return to Kingston, like meeting up with an old familiar friend that was just as happy to see me. I only wish we could have stayed a little longer – we all felt that way, EPI, AAH and I. We all loved Kingston.

I don’t know how it will be the next time I return. A lot of things are changing and it probably won’t feel the same. Still, I’m grateful for the time I had there now – even if I’m also a little wistful and sad. But that’s ok. I’m allowed.

MEANWHILE, BACK IN THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN
The weather has been exceedingly friendly so far. Sunny and bright today, if a little cool [at least by the standards I’m used to of late], with highs of around 12. Went and found a nice sheltered spot at the Laugardalslaug pool and basked in the sun – sunbathing is no problem in Iceland, you see, if you can evade the wind. Particularly if you’ve had a good soak in a hot pot beforehand. Sunrise 03.58 and sunset 23.07.

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Vacation abridged

by alda on July 19, 2006

Back home in Niceland now and the immortal words of the Talking Heads: I ask myself - how did I get here?? are too apt. Because the getting here part is kind of a blur.

Must be the jetlag.

Be that as it may, as you may have surmised - by my absence of blog missives - I was having a fantabulous time. Here is a brief rundown of what we did [and yes I wrote it down]:

WEDNESDAY
Went shopping at Mountain Equipment Co-op to the point where I just had to close my eyes and hand over the VISA card at the cash. Had a wonderful visit with my cousin Signy who had flown in from Vancouver. Had a rooftop barbecue with her and her friends Rhiannon and Jeff in the evening, while the sun went down and the lights came on in the skyscrapers a few blocks away.

THURSDAY
Drove down to Kingston in utterly gorgeous weather. Took the scenic route along Hwy 33; stopped for gas and managed to lock the keys inside the car at some station out in the boonies [oops!]; bought the best doughnuts ever, ever, ever, at a tiny roadside store. And the best cherries, too.

FRIDAY
Had AAH returned to us. Took her to a spa so she could get fake nails put on her ‘lil 15-year old hands [!]. Hung around in beautiful Kingston, which happened to have a buskers’ festival going on. What is a buskers festival, you ask? It’s where buskers and street artists from all over the world come to do their busking street artist thing. They close off whole sections of the town solely for that purpose and lemme tell you, it’s a hoot. Also went shopping at a fantabulous store called American Apparel; who knew there would be all those fabulous clothes there that I absolutely needed?? That evening, the best part: met up with two of my very bestest girlfriends from high school, for dinner. One of them I had not seen for a full twenty-six years!! Awesome. Truly. Awesome. Drank a little too much red wine, but there you go. If you can’t drink too much red wine with your old high school girlfriends, who can you drink too much red wine with… right?

SATURDAY
Coped with the effects of red wine excess. Flaked out in the grass on the banks of Lake Ontario with the sailboats floating by offshore. Checked out some more buskers. Took AAH so she could get a henna tattoo. And oh! Who knew Leffe would be served on tap in Kingston, and so cheap, too! Decided to stay an extra night because a) we loved Kingston b) we so very much enjoyed staying at my aunt and uncle’s lovely airy high-ceilinged, exposed-limestone condo, that they had graciously lent to us while they were away in Vancouver.

SUNDAY
On the way back to Toronto stopped at Sandbanks Provincial Park for a little sunbathing and swimming, at what must be the most beautiful beach in Canada. I’d provide a link, but none of the photos I found do the place justice. It is pure magic.

MONDAY
AAH insisted on one final trip to the Eaton Centre so I obliged her. And there was one last rooftop barbecue with very dramatic lightning flashes in the distance. Yowsa.

TUESDAY
Guess who I met up with? Jamie! We had lunch at the Queen Mother Cafe. And then EPI, AAH and YT went home to Niceland.

AND WE TOOK THE SUN WITH US
Or so they say, because the weather has been absolute shite the whole entire time we were away - until today when it was sunny and a balmy 15°C. Those poor OTHERS with whom we did the home exchange - they got awful weather while we got… a few thunderstorms, a few days of sweltering heat, but generally excellent southern Ontario summer weather. Right now it is 17°C and the sun came up at 03.52 and set at 23.13. And I have now been awake for 36 hours straight and am quite giddy from sleeplessness and not sleepy at all, isn’t that weird?

PS: Did I mention we got married? That was another thing we did in Toronto - got married.

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In which I rave about Bonnie Raitt

by alda on July 12, 2006

Had the privilege of attending an event last night that was billed as a concert but that was more like being in the company of your goofiest, most infinitely talented best friend providing one of the most entertaining evenings of your life. In fact, I would go so far as to say it’s the best concert I’ve been to in about the last 16 years, or since the last time I saw the formidable Bonnie Raitt live.

Bonnie is one of those people who has no age. The woman is amazing. Her energy and humour are totally infectious. I first became acquainted with her music just after Nick of Time came out, at which time I was living in Germany, and to my absolute delight she turned up there, giving a concert in Dusseldorf. That was just when Luck of the Draw was being released, which quickly became my favourite record at the time.

I introduced EPI to Bonnie Raitt when we met and while he didn’t take to her instantly, he came to respect her as a guitarist. However, when I finally got around to playing him some of her old bluesy stuff, he was smitten, and when we arrived in Toronto and saw that she was going to be playing at the Hummingbird - just blocks from where we are staying - there was no question that we had to attend.

We had the most amazing seats - in fact the guy at the box office could hardly believe that such fabulous tickets had opened up just as we arrived. Row D, dead centre, with no one in front of us. And what a fabulous, intimate, fun show. She’s such a charismatic performer, clearly loves the stage, and acted like she was at a big party with 3,000 of her closest friends. Not being a weepy sort, I nonetheless was deeply moved when she sang Nick of Time - so poignant and true. The acoustic blues numbers were phenomenal, and when she rocked she totally rocked. Her band, too, was utterly fantastic.

What a great concert. I just did.not.want.it.to.end. I tend to be pretty discerning when it comes to performances, and despite Bonnie’s forgetting of lyrics [that she turned into a big joke - especially during Papa Come Quick], messing up her set list [a bigger joke] and various technical hiccups, I couldn’t fault the show. Now if someone could only persuade her to come play for us in Niceland, like, once a week or so, that would be great.

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Word Cup fever

by alda on July 10, 2006


Little Italy
Originally uploaded by Alda Kalda.

Just before we left on this trip, EPI delicately broached the subject of the World Cup.

EPI: [Nonchalantly] So… the World Cup finals will be while we’re in Toronto….
YT: Oh, too bad! They don’t play soccer over there so you won’t be able to watch them.
EPI: [Turning pale] Surely they will be on somewhere… some cafe, something!
YT: Oh, yeah. Probably somewhere.

Ah, how wrong I was! Toronto has been absolutely entrenched in World Cup fever since we got here and until… well, it still is. And of course today [or yesterday, depending on which time zone this thing works on… I’m a little confused] was the playoffs. And because EPI and I like to live on the edge, we left the comfort of the living room and headed to Little Italy to catch the game standing outside a Portuguese restaurant and watching it through the window [that was the only screen you could even get close to - all the Italian ones were taken].

By the time we got there, the place was crawling with Toronto’s Finest [police force]. By the time 10 minutes were left of the game, they had added a special riot squad in a truck that looked very much like a tank, and pretty much doubled the number of cops. Just in case, like.

Thankfully none were needed because nothing but jubilation engulfed us when the results were clear? The whole street exploded in celebration. [Probably the only person not shouting was EPI, who was - very quietly - rooting for France and who had become increasingly desolate in the wake of Zidane’s bizarre butting-ram impersonation, and YT who didn’t really care who won]. There was dancing and hugging and incessant shouts of IT-AL-YA! while car horns blared and red-white-and-green flags flew everywhere.

We vacated the area pretty soon, only to return in the evening because we wanted to go to a nearby restaurant. On both occasions there were crowds of people streaming towards Little Italy and I’m willing to bet they’ll be partying throughout the night. Just hope nobody ends up in the back of that special riot truck because that mutha looked pretty damn scary.

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You may think this trip is all about glamour and glitz, but I assure you it is not

by alda on July 6, 2006


BB&AAH
Originally uploaded by Alda Kalda.

My mother has a farm near Kingston Ontario, where she breeds Icelandic sheep. We have visited, and left AAH behind, where her chores among other things will be to feed the Bottle Baby, prosaically enough named BB.

We also visited some wonderful friends at their cottage for an afternoon, where did fun things like swimming in the lake and [unintentionally] tipping the canoe.

EPI and I are now back in Toronto and are trying to decide what to do. Jazz clubs? Avant-garde art galleries? Fringe festival? Shakespeare in the park? Beach? Another rooftop barbecue? Or… hang around inside and write blog posts? [Gah!]

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