From the monthly archives:

February 2007

Visitor number 100,000 …

by alda on February 27, 2007

… is from Holland, Michigan, and came through the search engine ask.com on the oh-so predictable search words ‘iceland weather’.

Whoo-hoo!!

You, poor unsuspecting Iceland-weather enquirer, are hereby presented with this lovely bouquet of red roses:


… And because this is the Iceland Weather Report, not Champagne but half a bottle of cod liver oil*:

But the biggest THANK YOU goes to everyone who has visited since October 2004, especially my regular readers and commenters, who make this little labour of love worth it.

~ Kisses ~

*Not because I’m cheap, but because that’s all I could find. [PS. Today’s actual post is below.]

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Porno dog go home

by alda on February 27, 2007

Few things have occupied the Icelandic nation in the last couple of weeks like a planned pornography trade fair that was to take place here at the beginning of March. Actually, during the course of the hoopla it changed from being a trade fair, to being a conference, to being a networking event. In the end, the group – which was actually a group of manufacturers of pornography for the Internet, with a handful of porn stars thrown in – claimed they were just a regular group of tourists coming here to meet and have some fun – go clubbing [including strip-clubbing, natch], take the Golden Circle tour, go snowboarding up north. All perfectly innocent.

No way were they intending to perform any illicit activities like shoot blue movies at Hótel Saga [where they were staying] or anything of that sort. [Manufacture of pornography is illegal in Iceland.] Similarly they swore off all ties to ugleh stuff like kiddie or animal porn. They were tourists, f’rcryingoutloud! Outdoorsy types, here to enjoy the slopes and the Blue Lagoon, and to do some bonding at the same time. They did the same thing last year – meeting in Norway [I think] to go skiing and suchlike. Just to have fun.

An examination of the website for last year’s event, however, turned up some, shall we say, risque photos taken up in those snow-covered Norwegian slopes. Erotic to some, perhaps, but somehow the notion of someone freezing their tush off while baring everything in the snow certainly leaves YT, er, cold. Indeed, the whole thing might even give new meaning to the term ‘blue movie’.

So … if that was how they did it last year, was there anything to suggest they wouldn’t do it here? Would we be seeing the natural wonders of the Golden Circle in a new light? With an erupting Geysir [or Strokkur] having a new kind of starring role? Would the Blue Lagoon finally live up to its promise in those ‘Fancy a Dirty Weekend’ adverts?

In the end, the Icelandic Farmers’ Association – which [partly] owns Hótel Saga – decided to cancel the group’s booking. This came, of course, after various groups and parties had condemned the visit, including the Mayor of Reykjavík. Indeed, it is difficult to remember any issue on which there was such absolute unity amongst the different parties in the Reykjavík City Council. So, the organizers – in a serious huff – decided to, er… blow off Iceland altogether, with one of them – who is of Icelandic descent – loudly proclaiming that this was the first time in his life that he was ashamed of having Icelandic blood in his veins. [Aw, bless.]

And yet. While relief and ‘good riddance’ seemed to be the initial mood of the nation, it’s now like there has been a 180° turn. The papers are filled with editorials, opinion polls, letters … and it seems that most feel that turning the group away and condemning the visit was wrong. Indeed, a poll published in Fréttablaðið today confirms that this is the sentiment of the majority of the nation.

Somehow I never thought I’d say this, but I actually agree. Because while I despise the pornography industry and all of its evils – trafficking in humans, exploitation, horrific treatment of women and children – I also despise hypocrisy. While Hótel Saga was taking the moral high ground, it was also offering its guests porn movies in its rooms. While Iceland’s politicians and city council members polished their halos, they failed to acknowledge that downtown Reykjavík is peppered with sex shops and strip clubs, porn is for sale at any newsstand, and they have not yet seen it fit to change pornography laws to protect the victims by making payment for sex, rather than soliciting, illegal.

So I guess a few people have egg on their face. The good thing is that perhaps that public embarrassment will prompt some changes that should have been made long ago.

WEATHER!
Still cold, dry, sunny. Pollution went above safe levels yesterday – can you believe it? In our pure and pristine Reykjavík. Which perhaps is not so pure and pristine after all [see above]. Current temps are –3°C and sunrise was at 08.43, sunset due for 18.39.

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Burning down the house

by alda on February 26, 2007

A week ago yesterday, EPI, AAH and I all came rushing out of our respective rooms at approximately the same time. Reason: we’d all noticed an intense smell of burning. It was strong enough for us to believe it might be somewhere in the apartment, hence our immediate sense of panic.

The smell, however, came from the building opposite ours. Horrified, we stood at the kitchen window and watched as flames devoured a flat on the third floor. It was a bizarre experience, watching someone’s home burn like that. Fire can be beautiful, but in that instance it was terrifying. The flames were vociferous, sparing nothing. The window exploded, revealing a raging sea of fire inside.

Suddenly our sleepy neighbourhood - it was midnight - was transformed into a hub of activity. People came out of their homes, some pulling on coats over pyjamas. Everyone rushed down the street in the same direction, from where the flashing lights of police cars and fire engines could be seen. EPI and I were no exception - I wanted most of all to know if anyone had been hurt and couldn’t imagine going to sleep without knowing. AAH meanwhile implored us not to leave her alone in the house. Watching a catastrophe like that so close to home suddenly shatters your sense of safety.

Fortunately, no one was hurt in the incident. And the next day it transpired that a woman living in the flat had set the fire, herself. EPI, having gone out ahead of me, said he’d seen two people who looked like they were drugged being led to an ambulance. How immensely fortunate that the fire did not spread to neighbouring apartments.

Right now, at this moment, there are workers inside the flat, clearing the debris. I can see them at the window with masks on, throwing stuff down into a dumpster below. Out of the paneless window frame come the remnants of a life: blackened chairs, clothes, pictures, a printer, unrecognizable charred objects.

I know the woman who set that fire must have been severely ill. And yet, I cannot help but wonder what drove her to do it. Did she want to commit suicide? Purge the past? Annihiliate the present? Or was she just … cold?

TODAY’S WEATHER
Incredibly beautiful to look at. Bright sunsine, blue skies, minimal wind. But very cold and very dry. This is not good news here in Reykjavík in winter, as about half the cars on the road are on studded tires that tear up the asphalt and send small particles into the atmosphere that can lodge in people’s lungs and cause havoc. A growing problem, particularly in these times of global warming when the winters have become so unseasonably warm that there is hardly ever any snow or ice on the ground. Reykjavík, pristine and unpolluted? Sadly, not today. Current temps -7°C and sunrise was at 08.47 and sunset due for 18.36.

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It must be love

by alda on February 24, 2007

See these? They’re dried veggies normally used in traditional Icelandic kjötsúpa, meat soup made with lamb:

The last time we made meat soup for dinner, EPI wanted to get some of these dried veggies and I made a face because I don’t like the taste of the dried carrots [the red bits]. They go all slimy in the water and taste really yucky.

But a couple of weeks ago, EPI had some kjötsúpa made by a friend of his, and claimed the friend had used the dried veggies, and they’d been really good. So today, when we planned on having kjötsúpa for dinner, he kind of suggested that maybe we could just flavour it with a little bit of the dried veggies. And I said OK.

So this afternoon, I came home to find EPI sitting at the kitchen table. At first I couldn’t figure out what he was doing. But when I came closer I it transpired that he’d been to the store, and was now sitting at the table with the dried soup veggies spread in front of him, picking out all the red bits.

Go on. Tell me I’m not married to the most amazing guy on the planet. See? You can’t.

It was a good thing AAH was in the room, because I was able to tell her on the spot that this was exactly the sort of man she should marry.

AND WE HAD THE MOST AMAZING SPRING-LIKE WEATHER TODAY
Bright sunshine, crisp and clear. Slight breeze. Just gorgeous. The air so fresh. -1°C right now and sunrise/sunset was … whenever.

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Where to?

by alda on February 23, 2007

I have to say I’m feeling slightly directionless in terms of this blog at the moment. After the activity around here this week and my own personal turmoil, going back to posting trivial things about the weather or Nicelandic celebrity visits or cream puff day, or eat-till-you-explode day or what-evah, seems really silly. Yesterday I sat down and hammered out a post about this pornography convention that was supposed to take place here and had everyone in a tizzy and which was then cancelled, and afterwards I just looked at it and went … bleh. Who the hell cares? And anyway, what can I say about it that others don’t say just as well?

I dunno. Maybe this blog, in the shape in which it’s been running for the past two years, is winding to a close. I’ve considered that possibility. I’ve also considered the option of keeping it going and starting another, separate, blog for my own more, shall we say, genuine self. I guess partly what I’m saying is that I’ve sort of lost my enthusiasm for blogging about Icelandic life and festivals and traditions and weather and current events … all these external things. Because, let’s face it, when you’ve blogged about putrid skate three times in as many years, there’s really not that much more to say about it, is there?

So we shall see. I’m not about to trash this little project anytime soon, but perhaps changes are afoot.

Incidentally, I’m in the process of getting together my bouquet of virtual flowers and Big Brass Band because today will be the day when the 100,000th visitor logs on to this site. Whoo-hoo!

Be that as it may, in keeping with the theme of this post, I shall resolutely not post anything about the weather today. Bleh.

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Moving on

by alda on February 21, 2007

My, what a sharp little turn this blog has suddenly taken!

When I started blogging just over two years ago, I didn’t imagine I’d be sharing the things I did in the last post. Not because I particularly wanted to keep them hidden, but because they really had no place in my life anymore. The past no longer had the power to cripple or debilitate me, like it used to do. And since writing that post and reading all your responses, I’ve come to the conclusion that perhaps that’s precisely why I needed to write it. To show that the past really doesn’t need to control the present. Once upon a time, I didn’t believe that. I thought I was irrevocably damaged and that nothing I did could ever change that fact. I believed, for instance, that I could never have a loving relationship, or a family. Those things – the simple things that made people happy – were intended for other people, not for me. Now I know that’s not true.

Writing what I wrote in the last post was easy, but posting it was hard. And opening my email the next day was quite terrifying. I guess it’s taking that risk, allowing yourself to be vulnerable, and not knowing what the response will be. It’s the sense that when you lay yourself bare like that, people can come barging in and hurt you. Whereas in my experience, the opposite is in fact true. Vulnerability is the greatest strength there is. If you’re honest and have no secrets, then what can be used against you?

Anyway. What I really want now is to thank all of you who commented or emailed me with your words of kindness and support. It has totally opened my eyes to the immense value in sharing. You can believe that, even though I have not responded personally to each comment as I often do, I have read and pondered and been moved by each one. You’ve given me so much to think about with your responses. And have validated my feelings and experiences, and that is so good. Because being vulnerable like that also tends to bring on the old ghosts of self-doubt and denial … that little voice in the mind that whispers that maybe it wasn’t that bad, that I’m just blowing it out of proportion. The fact is that denial and self-doubt helped me to survive it at the time… but are no longer useful company. What I need now is people who help me gain a healthy perspective on what has gone before. Luckily I have those people around me today – and your responses have helped tip the scales even more.

I know I could go on and on, but that would be rambling and I’m not inclined to ramble. If I can sum up the solution that has helped me move on it is this: I have learned to accept what I cannot change, and tried my best to have the courage to change the things I can. Ultimately, I really only have control over three things: what I do, what I say, and what I think. Amazingly, those three things are enough to change my life.

In the meantime spring is descending on us, the sun shines longer and brighter each day, and all of a sudden everything in the house looks incredibly dusty! It turned colder today with snow after several days of gorgeous weather; right now it’s windy and dark with temps of 3°C. Sunrise was at 09.04 and sunset at 18.20.

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Dismissed

by alda on February 18, 2007

When I was five years old, my parents separated. At the time we were living in Reykjavík, in a one-bedroom condominium on which my parents had recently put a small down payment. To flee the fallout from the separation, my mother travelled to Canada to visit my aunt – her sister – who was married to a Canadian and was about to give birth to her second child. She took me with her.

The visit, initially meant to be only a few weeks, was extended to several months, and when my aunt’s husband accepted a job offer in Cyprus they invited my mother and me to join them. That stay ended up lasting for one and a half years. When we returned to Iceland, I was in my eighth year and went directly into grade three. It was my first introduction to formal education.

At that time, my parents’ divorce became final. In order to avoid having to sell their condo and to ensure that we would have a secure place to live, my mother and father agreed that it should be put into my name. At the time, inflation was very high in Iceland and mortgages were not yet indexed to the rate of inflation, so over the years, as prices and salaries rose and mortgages stayed the same, the mortgage effectively disappeared and the condo became my property.

Three years after we had returned to Iceland, just as the dust from my parents’ divorce was beginning to settle, my mother decided that she wanted to move to Canada. I still remember the dread I felt when she made that announcement. I did not want to leave again. Iceland was my home. It was where my extended family was, my [paternal] grandparents, my roots. But my mother insisted. In the end she played her trump card: if I came to Canada, she said, I could have what I wanted most in the whole world: a dog. Maybe even a horse, too, if we moved to the country. Perhaps we would move to Calgary, where there was lots of land and much economic prosperity.

So when I was ten, we returned to Canada and moved in with my aunt and her husband. Just over a month later, I started school. I remember it being an absolute, utter nightmare. I only understood about ten percent of what was being said. I was put back a grade as a result. I was whispered about and teased because of my accent and my lack of comprehension. I still have a vivid memory of standing out in left field – literally – with a big mitten on my hand during a baseball game in gym class, listening to the shouts of wrath from my teammates because I was supposed to catch the ball. I didn’t know. Nobody had bothered to explain the rules to me. I didn’t even know what baseball was. And I was too scared to ask.

What kept me going was the promise of the dog. That became a symbol of comfort, understanding and solace. When I asked my mother, she told me to work hard in school, get back up to my normal grade, and we would then talk about it. I worked hard. By the following January I had made it up to my normal grade. But by then, we had moved to a small rental apartment and dogs were not allowed.

My mother had begun dating a man, and shortly afterwards we moved into an apartment with him. He was a professor at a military college, hung swords and military memorabilia on the walls, and was miserly to the point of insanity [a topic for another installment, perhaps]. He was also obsessively controlling – the ‘little secrets’ that were the real reasons for his tyranny were exposed many years later – and he despised me.

We moved to a house on the outskirts of town when I was thirteen. My mother and I had been in Canada for three years, and I had changed schools three times. I remember virtually nothing of my education during that time – or subsequently. Everything I had went into adapting to ever-changing circumstances, and trying to survive the dysfunction and emotional abuse at home. The dog was still a topic of discussion, but by this time the excuse had become that my mother’s new boyfriend – and soon-to-be husband – didn’t want a dog.

Which is why it came as a complete surprise when, a short while later, my mother bought him a dog for his birthday. The reason? “Because he has always wanted a dog.” […!] This dog was a big, fierce German Shephard named ‘Chappy’ who lived in the garage and who I was not to go near because he was supposed to be “disciplined”. A few months later, Chappy met his demise when he was taken to the vet, attacked the vet’s assistant, and had to be put down.

The dog was only one in a series of bizarre betrayals and rejections I experienced at the hands of my mother. The next major one came a couple of years later, when she and her husband decided to move to the country, to a farm in the middle of nowhere. I was fifteen, going on sixteen. Again I was gripped with unspeakable dread; living alone with them out in the suburbs, steeped in dysfunction and insanity, was utterly soul destroying, and the thought of moving away into still more isolation, was unthinkable. I said I wouldn’t go.

In my heart of hearts, I didn’t want them to leave – although in hindsight, I wonder if it wasn’t ultimately the best thing for me. I was terrified to be left on my own. But that’s what happened. They left, and I stayed in the house, which was put up for sale. Bit by bit, they removed the furniture, until basically all that was left was my bedroom stuff and a kitchen table and chairs. Soon afterwards, my mother sold the condo in Iceland, transferred the funds to Canada, and because of a favourable exchange rate, was able to buy a small house for me to live in. And so, at seventeen, I was installed in my own property, was managing tenants who lived in half of it [which provided funds for me to live on], was struggling to finish high school, worked two nights a week plus Saturdays, and on the surface played the role of capable young woman. On the inside, however, I was devastated. I developed an eating disorder, used alcohol and drugs indiscriminately, and hid from people.

Two years later, having finished school and moved to Toronto [knowingly only that I needed to get away] I fell into a black hole. I won’t go into the details – except to say that it was my great fortune and blessing to be guided to a kind psychiatrist who with great patience helped me, over a period of about two years, to see some sort of light and regain a semblance of hope.

It’s been a long journey since then. Many things have happened, too many and too complex to explain in this small space. Suffice it to say that at times I have quite literally struggled for my life. But I am incredibly lucky to have been guided to people who have helped me see that what happened in my childhood was not normal, and not okay.

As I alluded to in an earlier post, I had to come to terms with the fact that my mother was not the mother I needed. Whatever her reasons, she did not nurture me, did not support me, made no sacrifices, and ultimately abandoned me. She could also be incredibly cruel. About fourteen years ago, when I was a single mother in a foreign country and absolutely terrified for the future, I turned to her for help that she had previously offered. She harshly rebuffed me. My appeals for assistance – which note bene were very modest – were rejected outright. Her advice: return to Iceland, and work to overcome my ‘deadly sins’. After all, according to her, I’d had every opportunity at my fingertips, and had squandered them all. And Iceland was now the only country I had any claim to.

At that point I made a vow to myself that I would never, ever, ask her for anything again. I kept that promise, with one exception: I asked whether she would be willing to pay for AAH’s flight ticket to come to visit her last year, and she agreed.

In the last few months of her life, I thought I’d finally arrived at the point where I could simply love her, without being hurt by her. I was wrong. Last week, I was informed that I would receive no inheritance from my mother. She had made a will, and her wish was that I should not be in it. Her entire [50 percent] share of the farm and land she owned with her ‘husband’ [they had separated, but still lived with under the same roof], all her assets, government bonds, personal belongings, everything, went to my half-sister. Meanwhile, all the papers regarding the sale, years ago, of the condo here in Iceland and the subsequent transactions of the property in Canada, had been meticulously kept and recorded as ‘advance inheritance’. No attempt had been made to calculate whether this was an equal sum. No allowance for the fact that at the time I was a child who needed somewhere to live, and something to live on. No gesture made indicating that she had not one daughter, but two. Not even allowance for a flight ticket for me to travel to Canada for her memorial. One hundred percent eliminated. Except for one thing: I was to receive her Icelandic books – presumably because no-one in Canada can read them, and no used book shop will have them.

This is easily the longest post I have ever written. I wondered if this was the appropriate forum in which to vent. I don’t know. Undoubtedly some people reading this will feel that I am wallowing, steeped in self-pity, or be shocked or angry that I’m airing my dirty laundry in public. Others may think I’m exaggerating – I assure you I am not. There is much that has been left out here. Still others may think, what’s the big deal, everyone’s had a terrible childhood. Perhaps that’s true. But that doesn’t make it better – for any of us.

Everyone has their story. And everyone has a voice. This is mine.


PS. If you’re new here, have managed to make it through to this point, and are scratching your head in confusion, don’t worry – this is definitely not the way things are around here normally. We normally stick to lighter fare – like the weather. Today it happens to be windy, overcast, with a damp kind of cold. 5°C. Sunrise was at 09.14 and sunset at 18.11.

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Something for the weekend

by alda on February 16, 2007

1. Go to see Russian Terem Quartet in Salurinn this evening. According to Wikipedia they play “repertoire from both folk and classical genres at a frantic pace and with humorous attitude” - just what the doctor ordered. Plus everybody’s raving about them.

2. Sleep. Been somewhat deprived of that lately.

3. Work. Has fallen by the wayside as of late. Polite call from author yesterday, asking when the copyediting of his translated manuscript would be completed. YT: ‘Right after the weekend, sir.’

4. Bump into Jude Law at the Kriglan Mall, where he will undoubtedly be shopping with his kids and the [cough] nanny. He’s already taken them to the pool, and also to the skating rink, so I figure the mall is the only place left. And it will be Kringlan, because surely he would not be so crass as to take them [and the nanny] to Penis.

5. Attend the 5th birthday party of my favourite little pirate*


[My favourite little pirate]

6. Surround myself with good energy and loving people because, boy, do I ever need that right now.

OUR WEEKEND WEATHER
Rain today and Sunday, sun peeking through tomorrow. Winds 8-13 metres a second. Temps 0 to 8 °C. Right now 2°C and sunrise was at 09.17, sunset at 18.04.

* Benni, EPI’s nephew.

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In the meantime…

by alda on February 14, 2007

Jude Law is in town with his kids [on Valentine’s Day, gasp!] and was spotted cavorting with them in the Laugardalslaug swimming pool yesterday. According to reports he was chatty and amiable and acted like, you know, just one of the common people.

Which of course begs the question: did he or didn’t he get naked in the shower? - That’s what I want to know.

Anyway, they’re having nice weather - yesterday was beautiful, cool with brilliant sunshine and clear skies. Our amazing light has returned following the onslaught of winter darkness and what a difference it makes. We have the most beautiful light in the world up here, I’m convinced of it. Today it’s a balmy 4°C and a little windy, with a thin layer of clouds. Sunrise was at 9.27 and sunset is due for 17.58.

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Defining the impossible

by alda on February 12, 2007

When there is something so enormous to be said … which can’t be said, then silence is the only possibility.” - Fay Weldon, Down Among the Women.

I have thought of this quote frequently over the last few days, as I have been drawn to this online journal I keep. Yet when I have sat down to write something, I have been forced to turn away.

For the first time in a very long time I don’t know what to say.

I’ve put down words, then erased them because they don’t capture the essence of what I mean. Perhaps they’re too frivolous, or too personal. Perhaps they’re exactly what I’m feeling, but then, a moment later, I’m feeling something different, and they become strange, alien to me, almost hateful.

“When there is something so enormous …” yes, but what is so enormous? It’s not just the feelings - I’m used to feelings, I’ve become adept at accessing them and allowing them to pass through me. Feelings no longer frighten me.

Perhaps it’s the rate at which they come - I feel like my life is flashing before my eyes, over and over: old fragments of things, memories, sensations, images. Things I had put to rest years ago suddenly come alive again and demand an audience.

Perhaps it’s the shock of being confronted with my own mortality. One generation is disappearing, mine is up next.

Perhaps this is what grief is - not just sadness, but also confusion, anger, anxiety, dread.

The relationship I had with my mother was not always easy. Years ago, I was forced to come to terms with the fact that she was not, nor had she ever been, the mother that I needed. I railed against that, for years. I judged her harshly for what she had been unable to give. Yet finally - at long last - I found a place of acceptance and was able to grieve. I grieved not for what I had lost, but for what had not been. And, in a sense, I said goodbye to her then. As my mother.

These last few months, we were in touch relatively frequently. More frequently than we had been for years. Knowing that she was ill, the past disappeared. I had no illusions that we would ever see eye-to-eye, but none of it mattered. I’m very grateful that we were able to part in that way, even if we didn’t have a chance to say a final goodbye.

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