This evening, EPI and I attended a fabulous concert with the Iceland Symphony Orchestra. Our friend Víkingur was a soloist, playing Bartok’s third piano concerto, and proved yet again that he’s one of the finest artists Iceland has ever produced. I’m not kidding.
Everyone who’s anyone was there tonight, the crème de la crème of Nicelandic society if you will if you shall if you must, plus a handful of plebs like YT and EPI. And you would not have thought there was a kreppa on in this town, what with everyone high on cultcha and generally radiating positive vibes and happy spirits.
But then again that’s what the Advent to Christmas is all about in Iceland – cultcha and elevated spirits. There is so much going on these days it’s staggering. This weekend, for example, we have one major event per day: last night we went to an exhibition opening, tonight the Symphony Orchestra concert, tomorrow a Yule buffet courtesy of EPI’s place of employ, Sunday another concert at Hallgrímskirkja. Next weekend, so far, we have one play scheduled, but no doubt there will be something else added to the programme in the coming days. All of Reykjavík is abuzz with activity. It’s a wonder people remember to bake their 20 cookie varieties and remove the dust bunnies from behind the sofa.
Not to say everyone’s just flying high these days, oblivious to our current economic conditions. I definitely have a feeling that people are cutting back on extravagance – but not really on their activities. They may go to a slightly less expensive Christmas buffet, they may buy less costly Yule Cat insurance, and I do know that most people plan to spend less on gifts this year … but really, I can’t see that the kreppa has dampened people’s spirits too much. Perhaps the hangover will come in February, when the VISA bill arrives – but then, that’s nothing new. That happens every year.
IT WAS A BEAUTIFUL WINTER DAY
Clear and crisp and sunny and calm. The kind of day where the sidewalks glitter with ice crystals all day long and the sky is one extended palette of pink and blue pastels. Right now at 12.30 am [OK, so it's not Friday any more, please note that I wrote the entire above post as though it was, ahem] we have -2°C [28F]. Sunrise at 10:57 am, sunset at 3.39 pm.
{ 16 comments… read them below or add one }
That’s lovely!
Sounds like a wonderful day!
A concert at Hallgrímskirkja! The acoustics must be superb! Hope you’re having a great cultcha weekend!
Reading your post was a great start to my day!
I wish you well!
I’m a new reader and just wanted to let you know how much I am enjoying reading your various blog posts! I have Icelandic roots but have only been once, when I was nine or so…I’m Canadian/American and scold my father every time I talk to him for giving up his chance at Icelandic citizenship! As I’m soon to be free of my university requirements (some of my favourite posts of yours that I’ve read are your thoughts on university, a process that I am certainly looking forward to finishing) I’m trying to figure out what’s next and I feel that getting better acquainted with my heritage is definitely part of that plan…so thank you for your beautifully written posts, which are helping me understand this little country and my connection to it.
Some people may be cutting back on their extravagances, but Þorgerður Katrín Gunnarsdóttir the Minister for Culture is sporting her new 66 North Þórsmörk Special Edition coat – a snip at 78 800kr.
Hey Mini-ciné, don’t you mean “Minister of Cultcha”? : ‘ )
BTW, that 66 North coat is a steal for only $625 USD (current rate as of 07/12/08). Perfect for the Hollywood celeb holiday budget!
Thanks, everyone!
Kathleen – hi and welcome! Glad you’re finding something useful here.
mini-cine – I’m sure ÞK is not strapped for cash … not only is she earning a handsome pay cheque, her hubby was and is one of the head honchos at Kaupþing.
Kathleen, it’s simple, you need to go back to Iceland. I just got back and I’m already thinking of my next trip. Tell you what, tell daddy that I’d be happy to take you there. I can’t find anyone here that will go with me so it might as well be us.. No really, I’m old enough and wise enough to be no trouble. Daddy might even approve. Get in touch and we’ll figure it out.
Well it is almost that time in Iceland. Shut everything down and kick the tourists out for a week or two. Turn the lights up to full volume and tell the yule lad stories.
It is snowing over here in Canuckistan and it feels like christmas. The ponds are frozen and this snow is the kind that crunches under your feet.
Gleðileg jól
and a happy New Kreppa.
There’s nothing like hearing a top-notch symphony concert–even more amazing to actually know the soloist!
B and I used to go hear the Chicago Symphony every season under the legendary Sir Georg Solti.
“Shut everything down and kick the tourists out for a week or two”
Please don’t! They, too, want to enjoy Iceland and Reykjavik around Christmas. It’s so full of light.
Unfortunately the concert in Hallgrímskirkja seems to be sold out. I would particularly enjoy to hear the organ – which btw is from Germany.
Don’t forget to mention that our dear Iceland Symphony Orchestra just got nominated for a Grammy prize
Currently visiting Iceland for 10 days… I was a little surprised that both the plane over and the FlyBus coach were so empty, but nice to be able to spread out over a whole row on the plane. Ate a lovely Luxury Brunch today at Vegamot (was about half-full of customers), drove to Hafnarfjordur to see a “Christmas village” while it was snowing, and off to pub gig this evening. Nice times
And the exchange rate is around 176 (I thought it would be more, but anyway…), so things are quite a bit cheaper than when I was last here a few months ago.
I love your Yule Cat custom. What a fabulous excuse to doll up a bit.
It’s good to know your holiday season hasn’t been spoiled by the crash — and how delightful that much of Iceland’s festivity focuses on the arts.
The mood here in the US is darker. Nearly a million more jobs have been lost in the past two months, alone, and 1 in 10 homeowners is inches from foreclosure or already in it. You’ve no doubt read about the store employee trampled to death by discount shoppers — a new low, but not so very different from the lunatic driving one witnesses daily as people rush madly to save a few bucks on gifts they feel obliged to buy, although they can no longer reasonably afford them. I feel terribly sorry for those with young children, who have to put up a pretense of jollity, when they’re scared to death of what the new year will bring.
Obviously, those who focus on holiday activities, rather than stuff, are a lot better off. You Icelanders have the right idea, Alda.
Apparently Christmas shopping in Iceland is strong with more people buying “at home” and also buying expensive gifts and with cash, says the Kringla folk.
In the meantime, the Government is feeling the Christmas spirit and is busy giving (or “gifting”) away the future. One Agnes Bragadóttir said that the fish quota was in the possession of the old Landsbanki, which the Government has promised to the foreign creditors. Adios, fishes.
Jon Danielsson the economist, on the other hand, thinks that giving everything away is bad idea. On the radio he said that Iceland doesn’t need and shouldn’t take loans from either the IMF or Scandinavia, or pay for the Icesave accounts. Iceland should float the currency on its own or take up a new currency, and while the refusal to pay would displease the foreigners, it’s the better of bad choices.
Poor Jon Danielsson, nobody pays any attention to him — he is soooo “October 2008″. Get with the new paradigm, Jon!
The Yule Cat Insurance was a new one for me today (I’ve been away from your blog for a few weeks) so I hit the aforementioned YCI and only saw a photo of a pair of (nice) high heel shoes. Figured I missed something along the way so I went back to the post and tried the other underlined segue. NOW I get it; that was really funny and I loved it!
I really hope and pray that Niceland gets rid of its troubles (send them to Siberia for the next few winters) and gets some really good level-headed management in the banking system.