Right. So I left off yesterday at the part where AAH and I were dropped off at Þingvellir National Park to go snorkeling in the ravine Silfra, which has some of the most amazingly clear water you will ever see. I’ve wanted to see the underwater world in Silfra for a very long time … I had been told that there are all sorts of tunnels and caves and magnificent landscapes down there, and was pretty psyched to get to see that with my own eyes.*
AAH and I were picked up at the Þingvellir service centre by two guys from the company Dive.is, Kevin [an archaeologist from Ireland] and Davíð [an Icelandic guy who lives in Sweden but spends his summers in Iceland ... diving].
Those two were amazing. They began by introducing everyone in the group [so very un-Icelandic], so immediately we felt we were among friends. They then proceeded to take such great care of us that it was like we had been best pals for years — talking us through every step of the procedure, helping us on with our dry suits, helping us with everything else [going into the water, releasing air from the dry suit, etc.], staying totally vigilant the whole time we were in the water [if they spotted something was wrong -- like, say, the mouthpiece coming out -- they were on it], even asking me repeatedly if my hands were cold [I'd mentioned that I suffer from Raynaud's syndrome and was a bit concerned when I heard the hands were the only part of the body that would get cold]. The preparation was extremely thorough and there were no surprises — they’d gone through every step with us so I felt very confident, even though I’d never snorkeled before. Truly awesome guides, and great company too.
The procedure went something like this. First, a briefing by the place where we would go into the water, on what to expect.
Cool, clear water:
From there, we went back to the van and got our kit on. First, we put on long underwear that we’d been instructed to bring with us. Incidentally, there are no change rooms, so the van served that purpose — and quite effectively, too, I might add.
Next came coveralls that we put on underneath the dry suit. Very mod:
And then the @#%$ dry suit — that was the only time I actually considered packing up and going home …
Fortunately I didn’t, because it was just a hop, skip and a jump into the water from there …
Or, well, maybe more of a waddling, penguin-like, down these steps:
By this time, of course, the camera had been left behind, since, um, it’s not waterproof. Our guides took some pictures, though, that I was hoping to steal from them, but alas, I completely forgot to ask them about them before we left. So I’m going to take the liberty of stealing a couple from their website:
This is pretty much what we saw, and it was AWESOME. The water is so crystal-clear and it’s really another universe down there, so calm and tranquil. One of the things that struck me especially was that this underwater universe seems to have its own unique rhythm, and all the vegetation down there sways to it, slowly and hypnotically.
The COLOURS down there were also so amazing — like the green of the vegetation, and those spaghetti-like strands [you can see one or two on the photo above] that in certain places were all over the place. They were this incredible fluorescent or acid green, an almost otherworldly colour. Looking down you could see all those caves and tunnels they talk about, and the BLUES down there were incredible, from this remarkable slate blue in the bottom to turquoise in the water all around.
My fears about the coldness of the water were thankfully unfounded — I was perfectly warm, save for my hands, but even that was manageable. We were in the water for about 35 minutes, and afterwards we were all just elated by the whole experience.
* NB diving in Silfra can be dangerous — in fact, there was a fatality there about three weeks ago, when a diver drowned. From the news reports, it appears to have been a tragic accident, as he was trying to help his girlfriend, who had got herself stuck in one of the tunnels. I hasten to add that that was a diving accident, and not snorkeling, which takes place on the surface of the water, wearing a dry suit that is basically like a cork and in which it is impossible to sink.
UPDATE!!
I was just about to publish this post, when an email arrived with the photos that were taken on OUR snorkeling trip. So rather than re-write the whole post again, I’ll just stick the photos onto the end, here. Behold:
Spaghetti strands:
If I’m not mistaken, that’s YT waving [first snorkeler]:
Oh, and when it was all over, the guys produced hot chocolate and biscuits from the back of the van … GENIUS!
As I mentioned in the last review, our snorkeling extravaganza was a part of the Golden Circle tour and marked a fabulous close to an excellent day.



















{ 15 comments… read them below or add one }
Wow! Those are amazing photos and I take my hat off to you for doing that. I’m just too claustrophobic to even contemplate doing that so I’ll just have to admire what you saw.
Seriously, if the Icelandic Tourist people haven’t come knocking on your door to ask you to sell the country they’re missing out. I’d much rather have a personal write-up of what to see and what to do like this than any tour brochure.
Keep travelling and sharing your country with those of us unlucky enough not to be born in Iceland.
Thanks Mike.
As I’ve mentioned before, the Iceland Tourist Board people have given this website a snub since the moment it was conceived. However, the people at Reykjavík Excursions TOTALLY rock. Respect!
Steadly you are gaining traction Alda no foreigner shall come to Iceland except through me. (Did they give you a dry suit as part of the thing, the water must have been wind chill subfactor -zero) Take care with extreme sports next I know you will be doing cave diving; makes a no oxygen ascent on K2 look like a walk in the park, once saw a TV program about a Kiwi gentleman who met his demise in South Africa, mixing helium/oxygen at 500 meters whatever,they Knew not how to recover him let alone save his life,cave diving numero uno most extreme sport.
Ps How can the water look so clear Admit it you ran the whole lot through Photoshop.
PPS of course you were wearing a dry suit I always try to speed digest words and pictures sorry !!.
kevin – mea non culpa … I take no responsibility for digitally enhancing the diving shots as they are all from the company. I suspect there may have been a bit of added colour saturation activity going on … but seriously, the water IS that clear. Witness my picture of the water from the surface … no photoshop there, I promise!
Sweet pics, now I want to do that. (I’m on my way.)
Plus, everything is better with hot chocolate at the end.
Ok ok I believe you Alda.Anyway at long last our English Rose is coming home.
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worldnews/article-1293234/Spy-swap-way–femme-fatale-Anna-Chapman-vows-return-Britain.html
I personally have found a way to solve all of Iceland’s Financial Problems.
1.We kidnap Anna Chapman.
2.We get her to marry the keeper of the psychic Octopus from Deutschland.
http://www.channel4.com/news/articles/world/europe/psychic+octopus+paul+to+predict+world+cup+double/3704092
After a suitable romance of course, tell her to take it easy this time, in the whirlwind romance stakes personally I find meet greet to marriage in 5 months objectionable ( I don’t care what young people say) say something decent 5 months and 1 day for instance.
3 They kidnap and transport said Octopus to Iceland.
4.Set up financial services again in Iceland, Highly leveraged bets on the Forex market, Spot Oil Futures whatever, high leverage is ok as long as you know what your doing and that critter does, if it can do world cups it can sure as hell do pips and spread bets on the oil futures market.
5. Iceland ends up with financial services industry 1000 times its GDP ,then its party like its 1999/2007, they complained about Icelanders buying $60’000 SUV’s and 7 Foreign holidays a year , Heck by the time we are through that’s what the average 7 year old Icelander will be doing never mind Mummy and Daddy.
6.Iceland will once again be the most expensive and happiest country in the world.
This is simply amazing! How cold is the water actually?
It’s 2 or 3 degrees Celsius, which is why it’s so clear (and why there are hardly any fish).
Sounds like fun. Everybody who has looked into the water filled cracks in Thingvellir is kind of amazed how clear this water ist. At least everybody I was showing the place.
2 or 3 degrees, yikes I bet that’s fahrenheit as well. (no I know its celsius phew !!). All the same July, what about going again in say Febuary to give the experience that little extra something. I personally would go for the macho macho scuba thing.
I can just see it now Kev says “Get the hell out of my way I know what I doing”, as he jumps straight into the deep end. (That was the last anyone saw of him despite months of fruitless searches by the entire Icelandic search & rescue service).
Alda,
So they began by introducing everyone in the group, and this made you immediately feel like you were among friends? I don´t think I really understand this. It just sounds a bit odd or strange. If you really want to know somebody you have to allow for some time. Why would you need someone else to introduce you? And why at once? If you´re really interested you can ask the person you want to know something about where they´re from and what their name is, after a little bit of time. If for some reason you can´t ask them, and I can´t imagine why you couldn´t, well then in many instances there´s always the network of coworkers, acquaintances, friends and relatives. Most of the time you can find out.
Besides, why would you like to get to know everyone´s name at once?
Hope this doesn´t sound too strange, but I´ve always wondered about introductions . So it´s really all about making people more comfortable. Thank you for your insight on this
Maybe we Icelanders are to self centered. If we´re interested we kind of introduce ourselves.
Alda I think you are a nice person so if this sounds to strange then please don´t show it in the comments. Don´t want to somehow ruin the atmosphere.
Johanna
The water is what is often called ‘gin clear’. You get in NZ and chalkstreams in the UK, where the water has been filtered, either by volcanic rock (like many rivers in NZ and indeed Lake Taupo – which is as big as Singapore island) or chalk/limestone in the UK. Makes for some fantastic fishing.
I love those photos of the water.
@ Jóhanna — you seem like a nice person too, and I wouldn’t dream of trashing your comment!
However, as it’s a bit difficult to respond briefly, I think I’ll address it in a new post.